Tuesday, July 28, 2015

I: On to Valdez


The city of Valdez is one of the two Alaskan ports that do not freeze solid in the winter.   The Bay of Valdez is a major commercial fishing area for salmon.  The original town of Valdez was completely destroyed/condemned by the 1964 earthquake and subsequent Tsunami.  The town and port moved to its current location after a thorough survey by the Federal Government, where it has flourished.  The town is also known for being the final point on the Alaska Pipeline, and the infamous oil spill from the tanker, Exxon/Valdez.
 
The town of Valdez got on the map during the gold rushes at the turn of the 19th/20th centuries.  On Good Friday, in 1964, an earthquake of 9.4 on the Richter scale lowered the land in and around the original city by some three feet.  The epicenter was out in the Bay and it produced a 30-foot high tidal wave that echoed off the walls of the bay to produce three successive surges eradicating the buildings, and killing nearly all of its inhabitants.
Valdez is beautiful now.  It is a major attraction for tourists ("Nature's Playground"), a burgeoning seaport and a center for sport.  This and other sea arms that connect to the Prince William Sound allow access to glaciers, fish, and wildlife unmatched in the world.  It reminds one of Milford Sound (New Zealand) on steroids!

The Richardson Highway is the only way into Valdez by land.  It traverses over Thompson pass, past glaciers on the Thomson Ice Field, and right by the Horseshoe and Bridal Veil waterfalls before it meanders down to the seaside.  



The Bay of Valdez is filled with wildlife and wonders.  Salmon return here to spawn from the largest salmon hatchery in Alaska.  The roiling salmon-fish shown below did not originate from a river, but from this dead-end hatchery.  The hatchery thus captures the fish, harvests and incubates their eggs, and then transfers the fingerling offspring to remote sites around the Bay to continue nature's cycle.

Sea lions live here year-round and happily rut on the rocks surrounding islands in the bay.   Several thousand sea lions cavort, and procreate on these rock-bound shores with great glee, judging by the intensity of their barks.

The sea lions thrive on the fish in the bay and are especially blessed by the annual surge of salmon returning to the hatchery - where they and the bears hunt regularly at high tide.

Sea gulls also enter into the act, picking up spoils from the sea lion catches (and perhaps, re-depositing them into the bay) from their unique rooming house.

The 2-legged fishermen in the area also capitalize on this process.

Whales enter the bay on their annual trek up and down the pacific coast.  Many spend the summer in the bay

Other animals include deer, fox, sea otters, porpoises, eagles, and those cute little flying penguins - the puffin.   All of these critters can be seen on a day-cruise, during the season.

Two major glaciers reach the sea along this coast: Colombia glacier is receding (pulling away from the shore).  Ice-floes are shucked into the inlet at an astonishing rate.

The Meares glacier more spectacular, as an advancing glacier.  It is over a mile wide at the base, 6 miles long, and extends some 90-feet above the water.  It moves several feet a day.   With great cracking sounds, it calves blocks of ice the size of a house into the bay every hour or so.

You are Here: Trip Miles 2170-2503 (Chicken to Valdez)

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