Wednesday, July 15, 2015

Dawson Creek: Mile Zero

Susie and I are embarking today on a journey up the AlCan Highway.  This road, now called the Alaska Highway not only represents a significant engineering feat, but it has some relevance to my heritage.  It runs thru some of the only remaining frontiers in North America.  This road changed the population, the economy and the culture of the greater North-West.

Alaska is the only of the 50 states that I have not visited for at least a full day in my lifetime.  I remember Alaska and the Alcan being excitedly talked about by the folks in Mom's generation at family gatherings after WW-II.  I believe that my uncle Lester rode at least a part of the Alcan on his motorcycle - from Newton, KS to the start of the highway is over 2000 mi. one-way - on very 'unimproved' roads according to today's standards.  And, my Dad had some connection to the highway in his days in the Navy, possibly leading him to chose to spend the later years of his life in Alaska. 
The Alcan was first completed in 1942, in under 12-months, 2/11 to 11/20/42,  It extended some 1420 miles from Dawson Creek, BC to Delta Junction, AK - just short of Fairbanks.  It was built by some 11,000 US Army troops, supplemented with 16,000 US and Canadian civilians.  An ad by Bechtel-Price- Callahan to recruit civilian workers read "Men hired for this job will be required to work and live under the most extreme conditions imaginable.  Temperatures will range from 90 degrees above to 70 degrees below zero.  Mel will have to fight swamps, rivers, ice and cold.  Mosquitoes, flies, and gnats will not only be annoying, but will cause bodily harm.  If you are not prepared to work under these and similar conditions, do not apply". 
The $140M project was funded by US Congress in an effort to circumvent a threatened occupation of Alaska and the Aleutians by Axis invaders. They built this dirt road simultaneously in about a dozen sections with over 180 bridges.  Completion of this road in that amount of time, under the hazards of this environment is truly one of the most outstanding engineering accomplishments in history!
Unfortunately, this development also wrote another chapter in the book of "the ugly American".  Recreational hunting and pillaging of native animals (caribou, moose, bears…) by the road-builders seriously depleted the population and upset life patterns of these creatures. The indigenous people of Alaska and Canada had responded positively and successfully to an earlier invasion of trappers and hunters by virtue of their superior skills.  This onslaught not only displaced these native people, but their populations were significantly reduced by plagues of measles, mumps, scarlet fever and other diseases of the 'civilized world'.
The road is now called the "Alaska Highway", and runs on to/past Fairbanks.   Among other improvements, over 97% of the road is now paved (although our journey will include many extra miles of unpaved roads).   The Alaska Pipeline generally follows the route of Highway in northern Alaska.  Civilization is rampant along the Alaska Highway 

...And here comes the next set of invaders.
You are Here: Tour Miles 518-852

 

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